Foraging for wild mushrooms in West Berkshire: it's time for chanterelles to shine!

THEY are known as 'the queen of the woods' – and these apricot-scented, egg-yolk yellow little gems are fruiting now.

If you are lucky enough to find a patch, then you'll know the joy of discovering a cluster of chanterelles, or girolles, as chefs like to call them, often nestled amongst emerald moss.

Before we go any further: this is NOT a formal guide to identification.

Get yourself a good guide book or, better still, befriend an expert.

Meanwhile if in doubt – leave it out.

That said, look in old, established woodland – they grow in coniferous forests in mossy areas or in broadleaved forests and will return in the same spot year after year.

Beware the false chanterelle (Hygrophoropsis aurantiaca) or jack-o’-lanterns (Omphalotus olearius), both of which are poisonous.

True chanterelles have forked, folded – some say false – gills and the fruity scent is a good marker.

Once you've reassured yourself you have the real deal, they can be used in a variety of ways.

A personal favourite is chanterelle potato gratin – slice waxy potatoes and the mushrooms then layer them, adding salt and pepper to taste.

Pour over a helping of double cream, top with gruyere and bake.

The combination is ambrosial.

Alternatively they can be sliced and fried in butter with shallots. Add a dollop of cream cheese and serve on toast.

Chanterelles are rather bland raw and will reward slow cooking.

Be warned – they do not reconstitute well after drying.

The best way to preserve them is to make a duxelle by chopping them along with shallots and frying down in salted butter until they give up some of their moisture.

Freeze the mixture before adding to a variety of meat, game or fish dishes.

Chanterelle schnapps makes novelty Christmas gifts, decanted into 'nip' bottles.

Place a few mushrooms in vodka and leave to steep.

The spirit will turn golden and the mushrooms will sink, allowing the woodsy, apricot scent to shine.

It can be drunk chilled and neat, with tonic or sweetened with syrup and a hint of vanilla essence.

Chanterelles can be found from mid summer onwards, depending on the weather, but they are 'flushing' right now.

Keep looking until the first frost, which will spell the end... until next year.

* THIS is the first in an occasional newburytoday.co.uk series on foraging. Next time: Porcini - king of the forest.